David Hope: Travels in Queensland

Ian and I arrived in Croydon after a very pleasant five-hour train journey on the weekly Gulflander service from Normanton. It runs every Wednesday, returning to Normanton on Thursday. The line, 151 kilometres long, is not connected to any other line. It was built to cater for the gold finds in the Croydon area in the 1880s.  Because of the terrain it passes through, subject to flooding and termite attack, the sleepers are made of U-shaped steel, generally laid directly on the ground. Although the initial cost was greater than for timber sleepers, the line is easier to re-establish after flooding, a feature of life in the Gulf. Replacement of timber sleepers would have been exorbitant. Amazingly, 98% of the sleepers are original.

The maximum speed of the railcar is 40 kilometres an hour, making for a gentle and laid-back trip. Our driver kept up an excellent commentary with a multitude of anecdotes of incidents over the 130+ years of operation, the history of the line and the country the train passed through.

And it is not just tourists carried by the train. Deliveries are made to stations along the track.

The train stops at Blackbull station for a morning tea including scones, jam and cream.

As we arrived at the railway station in Croydon, we were told that buses would come to take us to the Club Hotel for lunch. Despite the excellent morning tea at Blackbull, Ian and I were thirsty. We could see the pub: it was close, and we opted to walk. A good decision!

We were well into our second beer when the bus arrived. We were also well into some excellent rissoles for lunch – three per serve.

“They look good,” came from one of our fellow travellers.

 “Excellent rissoles,” we replied.

Quite a few people decided that this was the go for lunch. Sadly, they were disappointed as the cook had only made eighteen – six serves. We had had the third and fourth serves.

For those making the return trip on the train the next day the evening meal was at the pub. It was a barbecue.

“We’re getting in the line before you!” came from a few people. “We’re not missing out on the steak.”

That was a good move because the pub did run out of steak!

They switched to chicken, and the pub ran out of that!

Then, they ran out of salad!

The back-up to chicken was fish, so that’s what Ian and I had, with the back-up vegetables.

Curious catering – the train only runs once a week – every Wednesday!

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